I’ve taken the big leap and finally
got my first road bike! Her name is
Bluebell and she’s a Trek Lexa.
No more
pounding away on my mountain bike trying to keep up with Nick on his road bike
and all the ladies with their aero bikes during triathlons :o)
I’m pretty new to the world of
cycling and I didn’t want to drop big $$ on a bike without some baseline
knowledge so I needed to begin the process with a little course in bicycle
anatomy…
Frame:
- Top tube: horizontal or slightly sloping tube that runs from the saddle to the front of the bike.
- Head tube: tube on the front of the bike frame that connects the fork to the handlbears.
- Seat tube: tube connecting the crank/bottom bracket to the pedals.
- Downtube: tube connecting the head tube to the cranks.
- Seat stays: tubes connecting the saddle/seatpost/top of seat tube to the rear wheel.
- Chainstays: tubes connecting the crank/bottom bracket to the rear wheel.
- Front fork: connects the front wheel to the head tube/handlebars.
- Bottom bracket shell: holds the all-important bottom bracket - which connects the frame to the cranks.
- Top tube: horizontal or slightly sloping tube that runs from the saddle to the front of the bike.
- Head tube: tube on the front of the bike frame that connects the fork to the handlbears.
- Seat tube: tube connecting the crank/bottom bracket to the pedals.
- Downtube: tube connecting the head tube to the cranks.
- Seat stays: tubes connecting the saddle/seatpost/top of seat tube to the rear wheel.
- Chainstays: tubes connecting the crank/bottom bracket to the rear wheel.
- Front fork: connects the front wheel to the head tube/handlebars.
- Bottom bracket shell: holds the all-important bottom bracket - which connects the frame to the cranks.
Handlebars
- Drop: distance between the top and bottom of the bars. A smaller hand would appreciate a smaller drop.
- Width: distance from one side to the other and usually measured from "center-to-center" of the bar. Typically stock road bikes have a 40 cm bar width, but many women may prefer a 38 or 36-cm bar. If the bar is much wider than your shoulders, you'll have to brace yourself to keep your upper body stable on the bike and this can get uncomfortable.
- Reach: horizontal distance from the stem to the very front of the bars (aka. how far the bar sticks out from the bicycle). With a short reach, the levers are closer to you.
- Drop: distance between the top and bottom of the bars. A smaller hand would appreciate a smaller drop.
- Width: distance from one side to the other and usually measured from "center-to-center" of the bar. Typically stock road bikes have a 40 cm bar width, but many women may prefer a 38 or 36-cm bar. If the bar is much wider than your shoulders, you'll have to brace yourself to keep your upper body stable on the bike and this can get uncomfortable.
- Reach: horizontal distance from the stem to the very front of the bars (aka. how far the bar sticks out from the bicycle). With a short reach, the levers are closer to you.
Materials
- Steel: easiest to work with, wide range of characteristics that are fairly easily modified. Modern steel bikes can be made almost as light as any other frame material. A finely-crafted steel bike has a ride quality that other frame materials aspire to.
- Aluminum: one of the lightest materials, but often judged to be a harsh ride - especially for smaller riders. To compensate for this, tubes made of aluminum are often oversized. This allow for a thinner-walled tube, with a nicer ride quality, while maintaining strength. Can be more difficult to weld than steel.
- Titanium: lighter than steel and has a slightly better strength/mass ratio. Also has a slightly softer road feel than steel, which makes it a great choice for a bike you're planning on riding long distances. Much more difficult to weld than steel. Not subject to corrosion, so a titanium frame can be a lifetime investment.
- Carbon: all bikes we think of as being "carbon fiber" are really carbon fiber impregnated resin. In other words, they’re plastic?! Carbon fiber is an extremely lightweight material, and has superior vibration damping and stiffness, which makes it possible to have a very comfortable bike that is also very efficient at power transfer. Because of the cost involved in making molds, most carbon fiber bikes are stock, not custom.
- Steel: easiest to work with, wide range of characteristics that are fairly easily modified. Modern steel bikes can be made almost as light as any other frame material. A finely-crafted steel bike has a ride quality that other frame materials aspire to.
- Aluminum: one of the lightest materials, but often judged to be a harsh ride - especially for smaller riders. To compensate for this, tubes made of aluminum are often oversized. This allow for a thinner-walled tube, with a nicer ride quality, while maintaining strength. Can be more difficult to weld than steel.
- Titanium: lighter than steel and has a slightly better strength/mass ratio. Also has a slightly softer road feel than steel, which makes it a great choice for a bike you're planning on riding long distances. Much more difficult to weld than steel. Not subject to corrosion, so a titanium frame can be a lifetime investment.
- Carbon: all bikes we think of as being "carbon fiber" are really carbon fiber impregnated resin. In other words, they’re plastic?! Carbon fiber is an extremely lightweight material, and has superior vibration damping and stiffness, which makes it possible to have a very comfortable bike that is also very efficient at power transfer. Because of the cost involved in making molds, most carbon fiber bikes are stock, not custom.
Toe
Overlap
- Toe-Wheel Overlap: potential contact between the rider's foot and the front wheel during turning maneuvers, which is more likely on smaller frames. Typically this only happens at very slow speeds, because at higher speeds we never turn the front end very sharply. If there's too much toe overlap, the rider could stall out her front wheel and fall. Although many bikes have some possibility of toe overlap, it's a good idea to avoid too much.
- Toe-Wheel Overlap: potential contact between the rider's foot and the front wheel during turning maneuvers, which is more likely on smaller frames. Typically this only happens at very slow speeds, because at higher speeds we never turn the front end very sharply. If there's too much toe overlap, the rider could stall out her front wheel and fall. Although many bikes have some possibility of toe overlap, it's a good idea to avoid too much.
Women-Specific
Design
- Women-Specific Design: Trek's term for their women's specific designs; intentionally designing a bicycle from the ground up to fit female proportions better.
- Women-Specific Design: Trek's term for their women's specific designs; intentionally designing a bicycle from the ground up to fit female proportions better.
Rims
- Box-section: rectangle-shaped rims. Light, accelerate quickly, and provide the most comfort.
- Aero-shaped: triangularly shaped rims. Stronger, have less wind drag, and are stiffer (less comfortable).
Gearing
- Crankset:
the part the pedals are attached to.
Comes with 2 (aka “double”) or 3 (aka “triple”) chainrings.
- Chainrings:
front sprockets, located on the crankset. Larger numbers mean it’s
harder to pedal and vice versa.
- Compact: crankset with 2 chainrings
- Triple: crankset includes a small inner
chainring (aka “granny”) that offers easier hill-climbing gears.
- “Cassette” or “Freewheel”: the entire cluster of rear gears. Drives the bike as you pedal.
- Cogs:
rear sprockets, part of the cassette.
The larger the number, the easier it is to pedal and vice versa.
- Total gears: To figure out how many total gears are on a bike, multiply the number of chainrings by the number of cassette cogs. (i.e. with a triple crankset and 10-cog cassette, you have 30 gears)
- Total gears: To figure out how many total gears are on a bike, multiply the number of chainrings by the number of cassette cogs. (i.e. with a triple crankset and 10-cog cassette, you have 30 gears)
- Group: brakes, hubs, chain, cassette, bottom bracket, crank, derailleurs, shifters, and headset. Different companies (Campagnolo, Shimano, SRAM) offer different levels of components to suit various rider levels from entry-level to pro racer.
Level
|
Brand
|
Components
|
Drivetrain
|
Comments
|
entry
|
Campagnolo
|
Veloce
|
compact or standard double chainring w/10 cogs
|
nice function and finish
|
enthusiast
|
Campagnolo
|
Centaur
|
compact or standard double chainring w/10 cogs
|
almost Athena-quality function and finish
|
serious
|
Campagnolo
|
Athena
|
compact or standard double chainring w/11 cogs
|
almost Chorus-quality function and finish
|
race
|
Campagnolo
|
Chorus
|
compact or standard double chainring w/11 cogs
|
almost Record-quality function and finish
|
pro
|
Campagnolo
|
Record
|
compact or standard double chainring w/11 cogs
|
almost Super Record-quality function and finish
|
pro
|
Campagnolo
|
Super Record
|
compact or standard double chainring w/11 cogs
|
among the world's lightest components
|
entry
|
Shimano
|
Sora
|
compact double or triple chainring w/9 cogs
|
sweet shifting, braking and reliability at a nice price
|
enthusiast
|
Shimano
|
Tiagra
|
compact double or triple chainring w/9 cogs
|
nice function and finish, lighter
|
serious
|
Shimano
|
105
|
compact double or triple chainring w/10 cogs
|
almost Ultegra-quality function and finish
|
race
|
Shimano
|
Ultegra
|
compact double or triple chainring w/10 cogs
|
almost Dura-Ace function and finish
|
pro
|
Shimano
|
Dura-Ace
|
compact or standard double chainring w/10 cogs
|
among the world's lightest components
|
pro
|
Shimano
|
Dura-Ace Di2
|
compact or standard double chainring w/10 cogs
|
Dura-Ace quality w/revolutionary electronic shifting
|
enthusiast
|
SRAM
|
Apex
|
compact or standard double chainring w/10 cogs
|
almost Rival function and finish
|
serious
|
SRAM
|
Rival
|
compact or standard double chainring w/10 cogs
|
almost Force function and finish
|
pro
|
SRAM
|
Force
|
compact or standard double chainring w/10 cogs
|
almost Red function and finish
|
pro
|
SRAM
|
Red
|
compact or standard double chainring w/10 cogs
|
among the world's lightest components
|
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